Why the smallest size still doesn't fit short men
Sizing down shrinks a garment in every direction at once, so the smallest size can still run long in the body and sleeve while pulling across the chest. Shorter men need length and width judged separately, size by size.
How grading works
Brands design one sample size and then grade it up and down in fixed steps. A step down typically takes a few centimetres off the chest and a smaller amount off the body and sleeve length. The proportions stay those of the sample, which is rarely cut for a man of 165 cm.
So the smallest size is a smaller version of a tall man's shirt, not a shirt cut for a shorter man.
The two ways it goes wrong
Too long: the chest fits, but the hem sits low on the hip and the sleeves cover the hand.
Too tight: you size down far enough to get the length right, and the chest and shoulders pull.
What to do instead
Judge each size on its measurements: body length and sleeve reach against your height, chest against your build. A size that misses by 2 cm or less is within normal size-chart tolerance; a bigger miss is something you will see.
On Leumas each size is marked Fits, Close fit or Doesn't fit for your height, and a miss is named, for example body length too long by 4 cm.
Questions
Why are clothes always too long for me?
- Most menswear is graded from a sample cut for a taller man, so every size, including the smallest, keeps long proportions. Check the body length and sleeve on the size chart, not just the label.